Out the door by 8 am and on our way to St. Mark's square (the Time Square of Venice), before the masses. Much of the square and St Mark's Basilica were being restored and covered under scaffolding, and on top of that, large billboard sized ads. It's not what you'd expect, but it helps pay for the upkeep of this historic city center.
We headed just south of the Basilica (we didn't go in as they require you to check your backpacks/bags and there was no way we were leaving our camera in a coat check) to the Doge's Palace, took one look at the line and headed to the Correr Museum at the other end of the square to buy our museum pass, then back to Doge's Palace and right past all the sheeple, I mean tourists, in the "fast lane" and went right in. I got similar looks from the people on line that I get from tourists in Brooklyn when I walk past the endless line at Grimaldi's to pick up my called in order and zip past them all - hA ha!
Doge's Palace was impressive. The Doge's were elected officials chosen to rule Venice on the condition that they never leave their palace unescorted. Sort of like a reality tv show in the 15th century, these people were watched constantly. The palace itself is incredible. Almost constantly being expanded and improved, the palace was the home and the judicial court for any important or criminal person. Let's just say gold leaf was lots of fun for these people.
Next to the palace, across the canal, was the prison - accessed from the palace only by the Bridge of Sighs. Much like St Mark's square, the bridge was covered with a huge Bulgari ad.
Next stop, San Giorgio Maggiore. A small island south of Venice where some monks built a church with a nice view. The bell tower allowed us possibly the best view of Venice without the crowds. While waiting for the monks to come back from lunch, we saw an Italian couple posing for pictures in front of the church.
Needing some dinner and a break from the crowds, we headed back to a great little cicchetti (like tapas) place for dinner that was hopping the night before. On our way there we encountered another couple on their wedding day, crossing a canal on their way from the church with a photography crew in tow.
The cicchetti was perfect. We got a variety of seafood and fish, and a lasagna bolognese, a caprese with what could have been burratta, or just amazing mozzarella, followed by tiramisu and cappuccino. The octopus was startlingly fresh tasting, and the fish was mostly "garbage" fish; small, oily, bony and typically not good for eating. Yet these were prepared with sauces and dressing that made all the difference. The coffee was also a rockstar. This tiny place had a shiny copper Victoria Arduino espresso machine, they tend to go for way too much money but the coffee it made tries very hard to justify the expense!
After dinner we were wired (pretty sure the "decaffinato" we asked for was caffeinated), so we walked over the academia bridge to see St Mark's Square at night. Surrounding the square are restaurants and cafes and in front of many are stages for chamber groups - think classical music's battle of the bands. One would play a song, the crowds would clap, then another would perform, and the crowds would move over to hear them. And on like this all night between 3 different stages. We headed back to the hotel and fell into bed quite tired from all the walking.
- LT & NT
Location:Sestiere Dorsoduro,Venice,Italy
1 comment:
I had to laugh when you noted you didn't go into the Basilica since Dusty and I felt the same way. We decided we'd take turns and he went in and I stayed back with our bags..but we didn't realize it was closing - so I never saw it! The pictures are lovely and it looks like you are having a great time! Glad you were able to enjoy the cicchetti "experience" as that was one thing I had read about extensively I felt like I missed. Oh and the backyard of your B&B is so adorable! Looks like a great choice.
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